You should have your running
rigging (what other kind is there...;) set up according to the
designed sail plan. You don't need double blocks etc, but the
odd cam cleat would be welcome if you can afford it. Flying
Tadpole II is devoid of anything except lightweight blocks
and hand-made wooden horn cleats.
You could use any old rope for
the sheets, but use pre-stretch dacron for halliards or
you'll be forever fiddling with the peak.
Have topping lifts set up before
hoisting, as otherwise everything drags across the deck and the
crew. Sails can theoretically be hoisted at any angle, because
of the absence of standing rigging: in practice, anywhere with
the wind abeam or forward.
Always have sheets let off and
free to run when hoisting, but remember the main boom is 16ft
long. "Normal" boats with short booms don't realise
this and will crowd you. Hoisting the main with slack sheets,
or just letting the sheet run in close quarters, can put a nice
hole in a fibreglass hull. So can the bowsprit, but that's another
Remember: The First
shall be Last.
Main goes up first, followed
by fore, and only then the jib. Taking in sail follows the reverse
order. This is totally different to the modern masthead rig. NEVER
try to sail with the jib only, she'll go straight downwind.
the plans, mark on the masts where the boom jaws should be, for
simplicity in hoisting. Keep the gaff parallel to the boom when
hoisting. Once the boom is high enough, cleat the throat halliard
and peak the gaff.
Make sure the gaffs are well
peaked. A ridge running from
the peak to the tack, when sails are empty, is usually correct
unless winds are very light. A ridge running from the throat to
the clew will bring tears of mortification and rage to a proper
schooner skipper's eyes and the boat will hate you.
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